The Kawashima Family and Iwami Ginzan
The history of the Kawashima family as silver-mine officials dates back to 1610, when the family entered the service of Okubo Ishimi-no-kami, the magistrate responsible for Iwami Ginzan.
A silver-mine official was a shogunate-appointed administrator who supported the operation of Iwami Ginzan. Their responsibilities included mining administration, labor management, and the collection of taxes, making them important figures in the governance of the mining district.
The family’s sixth head, Saburoemon, is remembered as the person who restored and strengthened the family’s position. He inherited the family leadership in 1808 and rose through the ranks to become a kumigashira, one of the highest positions among the local officials.
The Kawashima family continued serving Iwami Ginzan until the end of the Edo period, when the system came to an end with the Meiji Restoration.
Rebuilding After the Great Fire
The main building was reconstructed after the devastating 1800 fire that destroyed much of Omori. It is believed to have been expanded further by around 1825.
A major restoration project was carried out in 1990, carefully restoring the residence to reflect its historic appearance. Today, visitors can explore the building and gain a sense of how an official’s household was organized during the late Edo period.
A Formal Samurai Residence
One of the most distinctive features of the Former Kawashima Residence is its formal samurai-house layout. A gate and wall face the street, while the main building stands behind them. This arrangement differs from the more open street-facing design commonly associated with merchant houses and reflects the social status and formal character of a samurai residence.
Passing through the gate, visitors reach the main building, which has a formal shikidai entrance used to receive important guests.
Although the residence may initially appear to be a single-story building, it actually contains an upper storage level known as a tsushi-nikai. This type of low mezzanine was commonly used in Japanese houses from the Edo period into the Meiji period, providing additional storage space while also serving practical purposes related to security.
Rooms Facing the Garden
The formal reception rooms are arranged to face the garden. When important guests arrived, large doors could be opened to create a refined view of the garden while formal conversations took place.
Sitting on the veranda and looking out toward the quiet garden makes it easy to imagine the daily lives of the samurai officials who once lived here. The peaceful setting provides a vivid connection with Japan’s Edo-period past.
Hidden Spaces and the Tsushi-Nikai
The Former Kawashima Residence contains several intriguing architectural features. Among the most interesting are its two tsushi-nikai storage spaces, each designed for a different purpose.
The Doma Tsushi-Nikai: A Traditional Approach to Storage
The doma tsushi-nikai is located above the earthen-floored area known as the doma. It offers an insight into traditional Japanese methods of storing and caring for household possessions.
Rather than simply putting valuable belongings into storage, people carefully wrapped them in Japanese paper or cloth and placed them in specially made wooden boxes. Items were periodically aired out and protected against insects so that they could be preserved and used for many years.
This careful approach, sometimes described through the Japanese idea of “shimatsu,” reflects a traditional culture of taking care of possessions and using them for as long as possible.
The Nando Tsushi-Nikai: A Samurai’s Private World
The second storage level, the nando tsushi-nikai, is reached via a narrow staircase hidden behind sliding doors.
Inside, visitors can see armor and weapons passed down through the Kawashima family. The secluded staircase and compact upper room have an almost secret-room atmosphere, offering an evocative glimpse into the world of a samurai household.
Rather than simply displaying historical objects, the residence allows visitors to experience the spaces in which such belongings were actually kept and used.
Discovering Everyday Life in the Edo Period
Displays inside the residence recreate aspects of daily life in the Kawashima household, providing a closer look at the lifestyle of a samurai family during the late Edo period.
A Recreated Edo-Period Dinner
A recreated evening meal includes rice, miso soup, simmered nodoguro blackthroat seaperch, simmered vegetables, boiled greens, and pickles.
Although barley-mixed rice was commonly eaten, white rice could also be served at dinner. The display provides an interesting impression of the relatively comfortable food culture available to a family belonging to the official class.
Visitors can also see traditional tableware, cooking utensils, and other objects associated with daily life. Together, these exhibits help illustrate how people lived approximately 200 years ago.
Exploring the Historic Town of Omori
The Former Kawashima Residence stands in Omori, a town that developed as the administrative and commercial center of Iwami Ginzan. Samurai, merchants, craftsmen, and ordinary townspeople lived relatively close to one another, creating a distinctive urban landscape.
Samurai residences generally incorporated gardens and more enclosed layouts, while merchant houses were built directly along the street to accommodate commercial activities. Simply walking through Omori allows visitors to observe these architectural differences and gain a sense of the social structure of the period.
The Distinctive Sekishu Roof Tiles
One of the defining features of Omori is the use of Sekishu roof tiles, whose reddish color comes from clay containing a high proportion of iron. Their durability made them particularly suitable for the climate of the San’in region and gave the historic townscape its distinctive appearance.
In contrast, gray roof tiles were used on many samurai residences and administrative buildings. Their restrained appearance was associated with the formal character and status of these buildings.
Plum Trees and the Silver Mine Community
Plum trees can also be seen throughout Omori. Their presence is traditionally associated with the miners who worked at Iwami Ginzan and are said to have used pickled plums as part of their efforts to maintain their health while working in the demanding mining environment.
Nearby Attractions in Iwami Ginzan
The area around the Former Kawashima Residence contains numerous places where visitors can explore the history of Iwami Ginzan.
Ryugenji Mabu
Ryugenji Mabu is the only mine tunnel at Iwami Ginzan that is generally open to visitors. Inside, traces of Edo-period mining can still be seen, including marks left by the tools of miners who worked underground.
Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Center
The Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Center provides a useful introduction to the history and cultural heritage of the silver mine. It is a good place to learn about the wider historical context before or after exploring the historic town.
Traditional Shops and Cafés in Omori
Omori is also home to traditional houses converted into cafés, craft shops, silver jewelry stores, and lifestyle boutiques. These provide opportunities to enjoy the town at a relaxed pace after exploring its historical sites.
Gungendo is particularly well known as a lifestyle shop that makes use of a renovated traditional house. Its selection of products related to clothing, food, and everyday living offers a contemporary interpretation of the region’s traditional culture.
Access to the Former Kawashima Residence
The Former Kawashima Residence is located at 118-1 Ha, Omori, Oda City, Shimane Prefecture.
By Car
The residence is approximately 8 minutes by car from the Nima-Iwami Ginzan Interchange on the San’in Expressway.
By Public Transportation
From Oda-shi Station on the JR San’in Main Line, take an Iwami Kotsu bus toward Omori. The journey takes approximately 26 minutes. Get off at the Omori Daikansho-ato bus stop, from which the residence is about a 2-minute walk.
A Quiet Window into Samurai Life
The Former Kawashima Residence is more than a historic building. Its architecture and exhibits preserve the daily life, values, and traditions of the officials who helped support Iwami Ginzan.
The formal entrance, garden-facing rooms, hidden staircase, tsushi-nikai storage spaces, armor, household objects, and recreated meals each reveal a different aspect of life during the Edo period.
Take a moment to sit beside the garden and imagine the passage of time in this quiet samurai residence. Combined with a walk through the historic streets of Omori, a visit to the Former Kawashima Residence offers a deeper understanding of the people and communities behind the famous silver mine.