A Spectacular View from the “Castle in the Sky”
One of the greatest attractions of Tsuwano Castle is the magnificent view from the mountaintop.
Looking across the valley, visitors can see the town spreading around the foothills of Mount Aono, while the Tsuwano River winds gently through the landscape. The combination of the traditional townscape, surrounding mountains, and river creates a beautiful panoramic view.
From autumn through winter, morning mist sometimes fills the valley. When the mist rises around the mountain, the castle’s stone walls can appear to float above a sea of clouds, creating a mysterious landscape that has earned Tsuwano Castle a reputation as a “castle in the sky.”
The History of Tsuwano Castle
Origins Dating Back to the Kamakura Period
The history of Tsuwano Castle dates back to the Kamakura period. Construction began in 1295 under Yoshimi Yoriyuki and took approximately 30 years to complete.
The castle was originally known as Ichimatsumatsu Castle before later becoming known as Sanbonmatsu Castle. Throughout the Sengoku period, it was repeatedly expanded and strengthened as warfare between regional lords intensified.
Transformation into a Major Early Modern Castle
After the Battle of Sekigahara, Sakazaki Naomori entered the castle in 1601. He undertook major renovations, transforming Tsuwano Castle into a more substantial early modern fortress characterized by extensive stonework.
Additional defensive areas, including the Demaru, also known as Oribe-maru, were developed, greatly strengthening the castle’s defenses.
In 1617, Kamei Masanori entered Tsuwano Castle. From then until the Meiji Restoration, approximately 250 years, the castle served as the residence of the Kamei family.
During this period, the castle town was also systematically developed. Many of the foundations of the historic streetscape that visitors see in Tsuwano today were established during this era.
Destruction by Lightning and the End of the Castle
In 1686, Tsuwano Castle was struck by lightning, and its main buildings, including the keep, were destroyed by fire.
The buildings were never rebuilt. Following the abolition of the feudal domains during the Meiji period, the castle was officially dismantled. In 1874, the remaining buildings were demolished, leaving the stone walls and other archaeological remains that can be seen today.
Impressive Stone Walls and Castle Ruins
The most striking feature of Tsuwano Castle today is its extensive stone walls, which remain remarkably well preserved on the mountain.
The main castle area was organized into the Honmaru, Ninomaru, and Sannomaru, or main, second, and third baileys. The stone walls rise in successive levels along the summit, creating a dramatic view and demonstrating the considerable engineering required to build a fortress on steep mountain terrain.
Panoramic Views from Sanjūken-dai
One of the best viewpoints is Sanjūken-dai. From here, visitors can look down over the historic town of Tsuwano and appreciate the strategic position of the mountain castle.
A Sophisticated Defensive Layout
Tsuwano Castle featured a distinctive layout known as “one castle, separate enclosures”, in which the main castle and the Demaru, or Oribe-maru, were positioned separately.
This arrangement allowed defenders to divide and disrupt an attacking force. Other defensive remains, including dry moats and vertical moats, can also be found around the mountain, providing clues to the military strategies used when the castle was active.
Visiting Tsuwano Castle
Ride the Scenic Chairlift
One of the easiest ways to reach the castle ruins is by using the Tsuwano Castle Ruins Sightseeing Lift from the foot of the mountain.
The lift moves slowly, allowing passengers to enjoy an almost aerial walk through the landscape. During the ride, views open toward Tsuwano’s distinctive red-tiled rooftops and the surrounding mountains, making the journey itself part of the sightseeing experience.
Hike to the Castle Ruins
Travelers who enjoy walking can also reach the ruins on foot. Hiking up the mountain provides a better sense of how difficult it would once have been for an attacking army to approach the castle.
From the lift station, the walk to the main castle area takes approximately 20 minutes. From the foot of the mountain, the entire ascent takes approximately 40 minutes.
Seasonal Scenery at Tsuwano Castle
Spring and Summer
In spring, fresh green foliage surrounds the castle ruins and adds vibrant color to the historic stone walls. During summer, the mountain is covered in deep green vegetation, creating a quiet and refreshing atmosphere.
Autumn and Winter
In autumn, colorful foliage spreads across the mountain, creating a striking backdrop for the stone walls.
Winter brings a different kind of beauty. On suitable mornings, mist can fill the valley below and create the atmospheric scenery associated with Tsuwano’s “castle in the sky.”
Where History and Nature Come Together
Tsuwano Castle is more than an archaeological site. The ruins combine the history of a mountain fortress with the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Its approximately 700-year history, extensive stone walls, mountain setting, and changing seasonal scenery allow visitors to experience several different aspects of Japan’s castle heritage in one place.
Standing among the remaining walls and looking down toward the former castle town provides a unique perspective on how the castle and town were historically connected.
A Highlight of a Visit to Tsuwano
Tsuwano Castle is one of the most memorable historic sites in the town often called the “Little Kyoto of San’in.”
The combination of imposing stone walls, a long history, mountain scenery, and panoramic views makes a visit especially rewarding. Travelers can choose between the scenic lift and a mountain hike depending on their preferred style of sightseeing.
For those visiting Tsuwano, a journey to the castle ruins offers a chance to step into the landscape of the former samurai era while enjoying one of the town’s most impressive views.