White Walls, Waterways, and Colorful Carp
One of the most distinctive features of Tonomachi Street is the combination of white plastered earthen walls, namako-style walls, stone paving, and narrow waterways running along the street.
Hundreds of koi carp of different sizes and colors swim through the waterways, creating one of Tsuwano’s best-known sights. According to local tradition, the carp were introduced by Sakazaki Naomori, the warrior who developed the castle town, as a way to help prevent mosquito larvae from breeding in the waterways. Today, the carp have become one of the symbols of Tonomachi Street.
The street itself also reflects thoughtful town planning. A central stone-paved road runs straight through the area, with pedestrian paths and waterways arranged along both sides. The design combines practical functions with the elegant appearance of a historic castle town.
A Townscape That Changes with the Seasons
Late Spring to Early Summer: Irises and Koi
From approximately late May to mid-June, around 3,000 Japanese irises bloom along the waterways. Their white and purple flowers create a striking contrast with the colorful koi swimming below.
The combination of flowers, clear water, traditional walls, and carp creates a graceful scene reminiscent of an old Japanese picture scroll and makes this one of the most attractive seasons for exploring Tonomachi Street.
Summer: A Refreshing Waterside Landscape
During summer, the flowing water and gently swimming koi provide a refreshing atmosphere. Trees provide shade along parts of the street, making it a pleasant place for a leisurely walk even during the warmer months.
Autumn: Colorful Leaves and Historic Architecture
In autumn, surrounding trees change color and add warm tones to the traditional townscape. The combination of autumn foliage and historic buildings creates a quiet and atmospheric setting for sightseeing and photography.
Winter: A Quiet Castle Town
Winter brings a quieter atmosphere to Tonomachi Street, with fewer visitors and a sense of stillness throughout the historic district. When snow falls, the white walls and snow-covered streets create an especially atmospheric scene.
Historic Buildings and Cultural Heritage
The area around Tonomachi Street contains many sites where visitors can experience Tsuwano’s history and culture. One of the most important is the former site of the Yorokan Domain School, where Mori Ogai studied as a boy.
The nearby Tsuwano Catholic Church adds an interesting Western architectural element to the traditional Japanese townscape. Its presence reflects the distinctive cultural history of Tsuwano, where Japanese traditions developed alongside influences from Western culture.
The town has also produced numerous notable cultural figures, including philosopher Nishi Amane and artist Mitsumasa Anno. Walking through the historic district provides opportunities to discover the cultural heritage behind Tsuwano’s reputation as a town of learning.
Tago Family Front Gate
A Glimpse of a Samurai Residence
One of the most notable historic structures along Tonomachi Street is the Tago Family Front Gate. It was the entrance gate to the residence of the Tago family, who served as the chief senior retainers of the Tsuwano domain. The gate was built during the Ansei era in the late 1850s, toward the end of the Edo period.
The gate is an example of a traditional yakui-mon, or medicinal-doctor-style gate, a type of entrance commonly associated with samurai residences. In addition to the large central entrance, it has a smaller side door for everyday passage.
Guardrooms were positioned on both sides of the gate, giving visitors an idea of the status and defensive considerations associated with a high-ranking samurai residence.
The gate stands on a stone foundation and is surrounded by plastered earthen walls with distinctive vertical lattice windows. Its restrained but dignified appearance conveys something of the prestige of the Tago family during the Edo period. The structure is preserved as a designated tangible cultural property of Shimane Prefecture.
Continue from Tonomachi Street to Honmachi Street
Tonomachi Street connects naturally with Honmachi Street, another pleasant area for exploring Tsuwano. Traditional merchants’ houses, long-established shops, restaurants, cafés, and souvenir stores line the street, creating the atmosphere of an old-fashioned local shopping district.
Visitors can stop for regional cuisine, relax at a traditional-style café, or browse shops selling local crafts and souvenirs. Small side streets lead to old storehouses and traditional townhouses, where traces of everyday life can still be seen.
This combination of tourism and ordinary local life gives Tsuwano a welcoming atmosphere. It is a historic district, but it is also a living neighborhood where people continue to work and live.
Tonomachi Street at Night
When evening arrives, parts of Tonomachi Street are illuminated, creating a different atmosphere from the daytime streetscape. The lights reflected on the white walls and water add a gentle, almost dreamlike quality to the historic district.
At quieter times, visitors can enjoy the atmosphere at a relaxed pace. The illuminated walls, waterways, and traditional buildings also provide attractive opportunities for nighttime photography.
Walk Through the History of Tsuwano
Tonomachi Street is more than a picturesque sightseeing spot. It is a place where the history, culture, and everyday life of Tsuwano come together.
The townscape developed through the history of successive rulers, including the Yoshimi, Sakazaki, and Kamei families. Many elements of the castle town established during these centuries have been carefully preserved, allowing visitors to experience the character of historic Tsuwano simply by walking through its streets.
The town’s strong emphasis on education and scholarship also produced figures such as Mori Ogai and Nishi Amane, while the introduction of Western culture contributed to Tsuwano’s distinctive cultural character.
As you walk along Tonomachi Street, the white walls, waterways, stone paving, historic buildings, and seasonal scenery combine to create the feeling of traveling through the history of Japan.
Experience the Charm of Historic Tsuwano
Tsuwano Tonomachi Street offers a beautiful combination of traditional architecture, waterways, koi carp, cultural heritage, and seasonal scenery. Its convenient location also makes it an ideal place to begin exploring the historic center of Tsuwano.
Visit in spring to see irises beside the waterways, enjoy the refreshing scenery in summer, admire autumn foliage, or experience the quiet atmosphere of a snow-covered castle town in winter.
Whatever the season, a leisurely walk through Tonomachi Street offers a chance to appreciate the history and everyday charm of Tsuwano, one of the most distinctive historic towns in the San’in region.