A Dish Said to Have Been Served to the Lord of the Matsue Domain
The origin of Suzuki no Hosho-yaki is associated with an anecdote involving Matsudaira Fumai, the lord of the Matsue domain during the Edo period.
According to the story, Fumai once saw fishermen near the Ohashi River grilling a fish over the hot ashes of a fire. He became interested in the fish and asked to taste it. However, the fishermen felt that it would be inappropriate to present a fish covered in ashes directly to their lord. Instead, they wrapped the fish in hosho paper and grilled it inside the paper before presenting it to him.
Fumai is said to have greatly enjoyed the flavor, and this preparation came to be regarded as the origin of Suzuki no Hosho-yaki. Because of its excellent taste, it reportedly became a special dish reserved for the Matsue domain and was not available to ordinary people until the end of the Edo period.
The Flavor of Sea Bass Nurtured by Lake Shinji
Lake Shinji, One of Japan’s Scenic Lakes
Lake Shinji lies in northeastern Shimane Prefecture and is believed to have formed around 10,000 years ago. It is the seventh-largest lake in Japan by surface area and is famous for its calm waters and beautiful scenery. It is also included among Japan’s 100 Scenic Views.
Another important characteristic of Lake Shinji is that it is a brackish lake, where seawater and freshwater mix. The balance between saltwater and freshwater changes depending on the location and season, creating a unique aquatic environment that supports a rich variety of fish and shellfish, including sea bass.
Sea Bass: One of the Seven Treasures of Lake Shinji
The seven representative fish and shellfish associated with Lake Shinji are collectively known as Shinjiko Shicchin, and sea bass is one of them. As a shusse-uo, sea bass has traditionally been associated with growth and good fortune, while also playing an important role in the local food culture around Lake Shinji.
Sea bass is considered particularly enjoyable from autumn through early winter. During this period, the fish migrate from Lake Shinji toward Lake Nakaumi as the weather begins to turn rough. This seasonal movement is locally known as “Suzuki-otoshi”.
The Legend Behind “Suzuki-otoshi”
There is an old local legend associated with Suzuki-otoshi. According to the tradition, sea bass leave Lake Shinji because they are frightened by the thunder that strikes over the lake. After migrating through the surrounding waters, the fish eventually return to Lake Shinji around their spawning season.
By the time they return, the fish are said to have grown plump and developed a richer layer of fat, making them especially delicious. The connection between a natural seasonal phenomenon and local folklore is one of the fascinating aspects of the food culture surrounding Lake Shinji.
A Unique Cooking Method Using Hosho Paper
A Whole Sea Bass Wrapped and Grilled
The defining feature of Suzuki no Hosho-yaki is that an entire sea bass is wrapped in hosho paper and grilled. Hosho paper is a traditional Japanese washi paper traditionally made from the fibers of the paper mulberry, known as kozo.
To prepare the fish, the internal organs are removed through the gills without damaging the flesh. The fish is then pierced with metal skewers and seasoned with salt. The hosho paper is moistened with a mixture of sake and water before the fish is wrapped. This helps create a gentle steaming effect during grilling, while also adding aroma and helping to soften the richness of the fish.
The Fragrant Aroma Released When the Paper Is Opened
As the wrapped fish cooks, the paper takes on a fragrant, roasted aroma. Grilling the sea bass inside the paper helps preserve its natural flavors while keeping the flesh moist, tender, and succulent.
When served, the fish is commonly accompanied by momiji-oroshi, a grated daikon radish mixture with chili pepper, along with soy sauce and sudachi citrus. These fresh, slightly spicy and tangy accompaniments complement the delicate umami of the sea bass.
Sea Bass Enjoyed in Many Different Ways
Sea bass is not limited to hosho-yaki. Its delicate and refined flavor makes it suitable for a wide range of dishes, including meunière, fried preparations, and clear soups.
Because the fish has a relatively mild flavor, different cooking methods bring out different characteristics. Suzuki no Hosho-yaki is particularly distinctive because it combines the natural taste of the fish with the aroma and gentle steaming effect created by the traditional paper wrapping.
A Local Dish That Preserves the History and Culture of Matsue
Suzuki no Hosho-yaki brings together the natural bounty of Lake Shinji and the history and culinary traditions of Matsue. The story of how a simple fisherman’s way of grilling fish is said to have evolved into a dish presented to the lord of the domain gives this local specialty an especially rich cultural background.
Opening the hosho paper releases a wonderful roasted aroma, revealing the tender, succulent sea bass inside. Enjoyed with momiji-oroshi, soy sauce, and sudachi, the dish offers a chance to appreciate the bounty of Lake Shinji from both a culinary and cultural perspective.
When visiting Matsue, Suzuki no Hosho-yaki is a local specialty worth seeking out for anyone who wants to experience the history of Matsue and the food culture of Lake Shinji in a single traditional dish.