The History of Matsudaira Fumai and Meimei-an
A Tea House Built in 1779
Meimei-an was originally built in 1779, during the Edo period, at the request of Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh lord of the Matsue domain, who was known by his tea name, Fumai.
Fumai had the tea house constructed within the residence of his chief retainer, Arisawa Issen, in Tonomachi. It was built approximately 14 years before Sugata-an, another tea house created according to Fumai’s instructions.
As one of the earliest spaces associated with Fumai’s tea philosophy, Meimei-an provides an important insight into the aesthetic ideals that shaped Matsue’s distinctive tea culture.
Moved and Restored Over the Centuries
Following the upheaval of the Meiji Restoration, the tea house was moved several times. For a period, it was located at the Matsudaira family’s residence in Tokyo.
In 1928, the building was returned to its ancestral home of Izumo. It was later moved once again, and in 1966, on the 150th anniversary of Fumai’s death, it was relocated and restored at its present site on Mount Akayama.
Although it has undergone several relocations, the tea house has been carefully preserved and reconstructed to retain the character of its original form. Today, Meimei-an is designated as a cultural property of Shimane Prefecture.
The Two-Mat Daime Tea Room and Fumai’s Aesthetic
The main tea room is a compact two-mat daime space, with the host’s seat positioned below the level of the guests and the hearth cut on the far side of the room.
Its small scale and carefully arranged features demonstrate how Japanese tea architecture can create a sophisticated atmosphere within a very limited space. Rather than relying on lavish decoration, the design emphasizes simplicity, proportion, natural materials, and harmony with the surrounding environment.
This restrained beauty reflects the aesthetic philosophy of Fumai, who developed his own approach to tea and became an important figure in Matsue’s cultural history.
The “Meimei-an” Signboard
The calligraphic plaque bearing the name “Meimei-an” beneath the thatched roof was written by Fumai himself.
The strong yet elegant brushwork is an especially meaningful detail for visitors interested in the history of the tea house. It provides a direct connection to the daimyo tea master’s own hand and to the cultural ideals associated with him.
A Traditional Garden with Views of Matsue Castle
The Seasonal Beauty of the Tea Garden
Meimei-an is surrounded by a traditional Izumo-style tea garden designed to complement the atmosphere of the tea house.
Each season creates a different impression. Fresh green leaves appear in spring, deep shade surrounds the garden in summer, autumn brings colorful foliage, and winter creates a quiet, austere landscape.
Rather than competing with the tea house, the garden provides a natural setting that supports the calm and contemplative atmosphere of the tea ceremony.
A Unique View of Matsue Castle
As the tea house stands on elevated ground, it also offers attractive views of Matsue Castle. From an area near a small resting place partway up the stone steps, visitors can see the castle from an unusual angle.
The castle becomes part of the landscape, creating a form of borrowed scenery in which the distant historic building is incorporated into the garden’s visual composition.
The Shiro-midai Viewpoint
Within the grounds is a viewpoint known as Shiro-midai, or the “Castle Viewing Platform.” From here, visitors can enjoy a particularly beautiful view of Matsue Castle.
The combination of the castle, surrounding greenery, and historic townscape creates a scene in which Matsue’s natural and cultural heritage come together.
Experience Matcha and Traditional Sweets
Discover the Tea Culture of Matsue
Meimei-an offers visitors the opportunity to learn about Matsue’s tea culture while enjoying matcha and traditional Japanese sweets.
Visitors can hear about the history of Fumai’s tea tradition and learn some of the basic etiquette associated with a Japanese tea gathering. This makes the experience particularly approachable for international travelers who may be unfamiliar with the customs of the tea ceremony.
The experience takes place at the adjacent tatami room known as Hyakusotei. Its location on the hill above Shiomi Nawate, close to Matsue Castle and the historic samurai residences, makes it a natural stop during a walking tour of the castle town.
Traditional Sweets Associated with Fumai
The Japanese sweets served with matcha include confectionery associated with Fumai, such as Yamakawa, Wakakusa, and Natane no Sato. These sweets were developed in the castle town and have been handed down as examples of confectionery favored by Fumai.
In Japanese tea culture, the sweet served before or alongside tea is an important part of the experience. Enjoying these traditional confections while looking out over the garden allows visitors to appreciate how tea, sweets, architecture, and landscape have been brought together in Matsue.
Matsudaira Fumai — Daimyo, Tea Master, and Cultural Patron
Reforming Matsue’s Finances
Matsudaira Harusato (1751–1818) served as the seventh lord of the Matsue domain during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. When he inherited the position, the domain faced serious financial difficulties.
Fumai promoted agricultural development, encouraged the production of local specialties, and supported flood-control and other infrastructure projects. These efforts contributed to the recovery of the domain’s finances.
At the same time, he devoted himself to the tea ceremony. He collected renowned tea utensils and wrote works on tea, while the style associated with him became known as Fumai-ryu.
Turning Matsue into a Center of Culture
Fumai’s influence extended beyond the tea ceremony. He also encouraged the development of traditional arts and crafts, supporting skilled artisans working in lacquerware, ceramics, woodworking, and other crafts.
His patronage helped establish the cultural foundations that contributed to Matsue’s reputation as a city of tea, traditional sweets, craftsmanship, and refined aesthetics.
The influence of Fumai can still be felt throughout Matsue today. Tea houses, traditional confectionery, ceramics, and cultural institutions all help preserve the heritage associated with his vision.
Access
Meimei-an is located at 278 Kitahoricho, Matsue, Shimane Prefecture.
From JR Matsue Station, take the Matsue Lake Line sightseeing bus. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes, followed by a walk of about four minutes from the Shiomi Nawate bus stop.
Meimei-an is within walking distance of Matsue Castle, the Samurai Residence, the former residence of Lafcadio Hearn, and other historic attractions. It is therefore easy to combine a visit with a leisurely exploration of Shiomi Nawate and the surrounding castle town.
A Quiet Place to Experience the Spirit of Tea
Meimei-an is more than an old tea house. It is a place where visitors can experience the aesthetic ideals that shaped Matsue’s distinctive tea culture.
Its simple architecture, thatched roof, carefully designed garden, views of Matsue Castle, and connection with Matsudaira Fumai all come together to create a peaceful atmosphere.
For international travelers, enjoying matcha and a traditional sweet in this historic setting provides a direct and memorable introduction to the Japanese tea ceremony. Sitting quietly in the garden, surrounded by greenery and history, offers a glimpse into the cultural world that Fumai helped establish more than two centuries ago.
With Matsue Castle and the historic streets of Shiomi Nawate nearby, Meimei-an is an ideal stop for anyone wishing to discover the deeper cultural character of Matsue.