What Are the Morotabune?
The Morotabune are sacred boats associated with Miho Shrine. Except during the annual Shinto ritual, they are kept within the shrine grounds and are not put into the water.
According to tradition, the earliest Morotabune were single-log dugout canoes carved from a single camphor tree. The boats used today, however, have a composite structure made by joining two large fir timbers together.
The two Morotabune currently used in the ritual were built in 1978 by Mutsuo Yoshioka, a boatbuilder from the Irie area of Daikon Island. The previous generation of boats, built in 1940 by his predecessor Riichiro Yoshioka, is preserved in a storage facility belonging to Miho Shrine.
Going further back, a boat was built by a Mihonoseki boatbuilder in 1901, while another was donated in 1858 by the Nadamura area of Dogo Island in the Oki Islands. This history reflects a long-standing tradition of rebuilding the sacred boats approximately every 40 years.
Each Morotabune measures approximately 6.6 meters in length, 1.12 meters at its widest point, and 51 centimeters in depth. Their shape evokes ancient dugout canoes and makes them an exceptionally valuable example of traditional Japanese boatbuilding techniques.
The Morotabune Shinto Ritual and the Kuniyuzuri Myth
The Morotabune Shinto Ritual reenacts the famous Kuniyuzuri, or Transfer of the Land, story from Japanese mythology, recorded in the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.
According to the myth, Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto, the deity enshrined at Miho Shrine and widely known as Ebisu, was fishing off the coast of Mihonoseki when messengers sent by Okuninushi-no-Mikoto arrived in a Morotabune. They came to ask whether Kotoshironushi would agree to the transfer of the land.
The ritual also expresses prayers and gratitude for abundant harvests, successful fishing, and the prosperity of the port. Held in the cold of December, the ceremony gives Mihonoseki Fishing Port a particularly solemn and energetic atmosphere as local residents and visitors gather to watch.
A Powerful Ritual on the Sea
During the ceremony, nine parishioners dressed in white ceremonial clothing board each of the two Morotabune. As drums sound, they row out onto the water while shouting the spirited cry of “Ya-ya.” The sight of the boats surging into the harbor is one of the most dramatic moments of the ceremony.
The boats travel toward the area around Maroudo Shrine on the opposite shore before turning back and racing against each other. The participants vigorously splash seawater at the other boat with their oars. This dramatic action is traditionally interpreted as a symbolic representation of the mythical negotiations between the gods.
After returning to the harbor, the participants take a decorative object called a “Makka”, which is placed at the bow of the boat, and run toward the main sanctuary to present it before the deity. The competition to see which team can make its offering first creates an especially lively and exciting finale.
A Series of Rituals Beginning on December 1
The Morotabune Shinto Ritual is not limited to December 3. A series of ceremonies begins on December 1, supported by a traditional organization of shrine parishioners with various roles, including the toya, guest head, annual chief priest, and other ceremonial positions.
On the evening of December 2, the eve of the main ceremony, a traditional sweet rice drink called Gosugi is offered, followed by sacred dances performed by shrine maidens and other ritual participants.
On the morning of December 3, the Niinamesai Harvest Festival is held. The Morotabune Shinto Ritual then takes place in the afternoon, bringing the series of ceremonies to its dramatic climax.
Miho Shrine: The Historic Setting of the Ritual
The Morotabune Shinto Ritual takes place at Miho Shrine, regarded as the head shrine of approximately 3,400 Ebisu shrines throughout Japan. Its exact foundation date is unknown, but the shrine is recorded in the Izumo Fudoki and has been an important center of worship since ancient times.
The principal deities are Kotoshironushi-no-Kami, widely worshipped as Ebisu, and Mihotsuhime-no-Mikoto, his mother. The shrine is associated with a wide range of blessings, including prosperity in business, successful fishing, maritime safety and commerce, abundant harvests, good relationships, music, and the performing arts.
The Rare Miho-zukuri Main Sanctuary
One of Miho Shrine’s most remarkable architectural features is its unusual main sanctuary, where two separate halls stand side by side. This distinctive style is known as Miho-zukuri or Hiyoku Taisha-zukuri and is extremely rare in Japan.
The present main sanctuary was rebuilt in 1813 and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. One hall enshrines the male deity Kotoshironushi-no-Kami, while the other is dedicated to the female deity Mihotsuhime-no-Mikoto. The different forms of the chigi, the crossed finials rising from the roofs, also traditionally express the distinction between the male and female deities.
The shrine complex also includes an open and elegant worship hall designed by the renowned architect Ito Chuta, together with a sacred gate and covered corridors. The combination of solemn religious architecture and graceful design creates a distinctive atmosphere.
Miho Shrine as a Sanctuary of Music
Miho Shrine is also famous as a place of worship associated with musical instruments and performing arts. Over the centuries, many musical instruments have been dedicated to the shrine.
More than 850 donated musical instruments are preserved in its treasure house, including traditional Izumo zithers, moon-shaped Chinese lutes, and an early Japanese music box. Some instruments originated in China, reflecting the cultural exchange that flourished in Mihonoseki when the town served as an important maritime trading center.
Exploring the Historic Port Town of Mihonoseki
Walking Along Aoishi Tatami Street
The approach leading from Miho Shrine toward Butsukokuji Temple is known as Aoishi Tatami Street. The street is paved with natural stones that take on a beautiful bluish sheen when wet, preserving much of the atmosphere of the Edo period.
During the era when Kitamaebune shipping flourished, shipping agents, inns, and merchants’ houses lined this street, which was filled with sailors and travelers. Many historic buildings remain today, giving visitors the feeling of stepping into a scene from old Japan.
Literary figures such as Lafcadio Hearn, Yosano Akiko, and Takahama Kyoshi also visited Mihonoseki and left impressions of the town in their writings.
Mihonoseki Lighthouse and Spectacular Views
Mihonoseki Lighthouse was built in 1898 and is regarded as the oldest stone lighthouse in the San’in region. Standing on a hill approximately 90 meters above sea level, it offers panoramic views across the Sea of Japan, Mount Daisen, and even the Oki Islands on clear days.
Walking paths and observation areas around the lighthouse allow visitors to enjoy the sea breeze and magnificent coastal scenery at a leisurely pace. A restaurant housed in the former lighthouse keeper’s residence also provides an opportunity to enjoy a meal while looking out over the Sea of Japan.
A Haven for Nature and Migratory Birds
Located at the eastern tip of the Shimane Peninsula, Mihonoseki is also an important stopover for migratory birds. In spring, species such as blue-and-white flycatchers and narcissus flycatchers can be seen, while birds such as pale thrushes arrive in autumn.
The Jizozaki area is also home to Japanese bush warblers, Japanese white-eyes, brown-eared bulbuls, and many other birds. The area is therefore popular with nature lovers and birdwatchers as well as visitors interested in history and culture.
Festivals and Traditional Culture in Mihonoseki
In addition to the Morotabune Shinto Ritual, Mihonoseki is known for the Aoshibagaki Shinto Ritual, held on April 7. This ceremony reenacts the story in which Kotoshironushi-no-Kami disappears into the sea and returns as a deity, symbolizing rebirth and the cycle of life.
Other traditional events are held throughout the year, including the Kami-mukae Shinto Ritual in May, Urayasu-no-Mai sacred dance in September, and a winter firecracker ceremony.
These events are not simply performances for visitors. They remain closely connected with the daily lives, traditions, and religious beliefs of the local community, which is one of the most appealing aspects of Mihonoseki’s cultural heritage.
How to Enjoy Sightseeing in Mihonoseki
When visiting Mihonoseki, it is worth exploring more than just Miho Shrine. A walking route that includes Aoishi Tatami Street, Butsukokuji Temple, Mihonoseki Lighthouse, and Gohonmatsu Park allows visitors to experience both the historic town and its beautiful natural surroundings.
The town is also an excellent place to enjoy fresh seafood from the surrounding waters while taking a leisurely stroll through its historic streets. In particular, the Morotabune Shinto Ritual in winter provides a rare opportunity to witness a living tradition rooted in the world of ancient Japanese mythology.
A Port Town Where Myth, the Sea, and Daily Life Meet
Mihonoseki is a fascinating destination where Japanese mythology, maritime history, traditional worship, and local life have remained closely intertwined.
The sacred Morotabune, the ancient traditions of Miho Shrine, historic stone-paved streets, and dramatic coastal scenery all reveal different aspects of this remarkable port town. Take time to explore Mihonoseki at a relaxed pace and discover the atmosphere of a place where centuries-old prayers and maritime culture continue to live on today.