The History of Izumo Soba
Soba Culture Brought from Matsumoto
The development of Izumo’s distinctive soba culture is closely connected with the history of the Matsue domain during the Edo period. In 1638, Matsudaira Naomasa, the lord of the Matsumoto domain in Shinano Province, was transferred to the Matsue domain in Izumo by order of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu.
It is said that Naomasa brought soba makers with him from Matsumoto. Their arrival helped introduce and establish a more developed soba culture in the Izumo and Matsue area.
Today, February 11 is recognized as Izumo Soba Day, providing an opportunity for the region to celebrate and promote this traditional food culture. Travelers visiting around this time may encounter special events and limited soba dishes at local restaurants.
The Natural Environment of Okuizumo
The natural environment of the Okuizumo area also played an important role in the development of local soba culture. Parts of present-day Unnan and Okuizumo have cold climates and relatively poor mountain soils. Buckwheat grows quickly and tolerates cold conditions, making it well suited to the region.
For centuries, buckwheat was cultivated in the mountain communities and gradually became an important part of everyday food culture. The region’s history of tatara ironmaking also influenced agriculture, including the development of slash-and-burn farming in the mountains.
Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh lord of the Matsue domain and a renowned tea master better known as Fumai, is also said to have contributed to the popularity of soba. At a time when soba was not necessarily considered a food for the upper classes, Fumai enjoyed it and incorporated it into tea cuisine, helping raise its cultural status.
What Makes Izumo Soba Different?
A Darker Color and Rich Buckwheat Aroma
The most recognizable characteristic of Izumo soba is its dark color and intense aroma. While many types of soba are made from buckwheat that has been hulled before milling, Izumo soba uses whole buckwheat seeds, including the outer hull.
The traditional hikigurumi method grinds the entire grain with a stone mill rather than separating the flour into different grades. This gives the noodles their darker appearance and pronounced buckwheat flavor.
Only a relatively small amount of wheat flour is used as a binder, generally around 20 percent. As a result, the natural flavor of buckwheat remains at the forefront. The noodles have a firm texture and a deep, rustic taste that becomes more pronounced as you chew.
A Distinctive Way of Eating Izumo Soba
Izumo soba is also distinctive in the way it is served. Rather than dipping the noodles into a separate bowl of sauce, as is common with cold soba, the sauce is poured directly over the noodles.
This allows the flavor of the soba, sauce, and toppings to come together in every bite. Two traditional serving styles are particularly important: warigo soba and kamaage soba.
Warigo Soba — The Iconic Three-Tiered Soba
When people picture Izumo soba, they often imagine warigo soba, served in three round containers stacked on top of one another.
The tradition is said to have developed when people in the Matsue castle town carried soba outdoors in stacked wooden boxes. These containers were known as “warigo,” giving the dish its name. Today, round lacquered bowls are generally used instead.
A standard serving consists of three tiers, and local diners often order soba by the number of bowls, such as “three” or “five.” The noodles are topped with ingredients such as green onions, shredded nori seaweed, grated daikon radish, and bonito flakes.
Instead of dipping the noodles into a separate sauce, diners pour the sauce directly over the soba in the first bowl. After finishing the noodles, the remaining sauce is transferred to the next bowl before eating it, and the process continues through the tiers.
At the end of the meal, try sobayu, the warm water in which the soba was cooked. Traditionally enjoyed after soba, it has a gentle flavor and provides a satisfying finish to the meal.
Kamaage Soba — Soba Served in Its Cooking Water
Another important style is kamaage soba, which is particularly associated with the area around Izumo Taisha. It is traditionally linked to the Kamigari Festival, held during the tenth month of the traditional lunar calendar, when it was served at food stalls during religious celebrations.
Because the noodles were served outdoors, they were not rinsed in cold water after boiling. Instead, the freshly cooked soba was placed directly into a bowl together with its cloudy cooking water.
Diners then add soba sauce themselves, adjusting the strength to their preference, before adding toppings. Because the noodles are not chilled and retain some of their natural starch, the texture is different from ordinary cold soba. The result is a warm and deeply aromatic dish that allows the natural flavor of the buckwheat to come through.
Different Soba Traditions Across Shimane
Okuizumo Soba
Okuizumo is one of Shimane’s major soba-producing regions and has a long history of cultivating high-quality buckwheat. One particularly rare local variety is Yokota Ko-soba, a small-grained native variety known for its strong aroma and subtle sweetness.
The history of buckwheat cultivation is closely connected with the mountain landscape and traditional agriculture that developed alongside the region’s famous tatara ironmaking culture.
Sanbe Soba
Around Mount Sanbe, another local style known as Sanbe soba developed in response to the region’s volcanic soil and significant differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures.
The buckwheat is milled after removing the outer hull, resulting in noodles with a lighter color and smoother texture. Sanbe soba is particularly well suited to simple toppings such as freshly grated wasabi.
Oki Soba
In the Oki Islands, 100-percent buckwheat soba without wheat flour is traditionally popular. The island version also makes use of seafood, with broth often prepared from grilled mackerel or flying fish.
The combination of buckwheat and locally sourced seafood creates a distinctive flavor that reflects the island lifestyle and the close relationship between the people of Oki and the surrounding sea.
Native Varieties and the Future of Izumo Soba
The “Izumo no Mai” Variety
Small-grained native buckwheat varieties have been cultivated in the Izumo region for generations. However, the area devoted to these traditional varieties has declined as other varieties have been introduced.
In response, Shimane Prefecture developed its own variety called Izumo no Mai. It was created by crossing the “Botan Soba” variety from Hokkaido with the native “Yokota Zairai” variety from Okuizumo.
Izumo no Mai combines a pleasant flavor with relatively stable yields and is being promoted as a new specialty of Shimane. Its name contains the word “mai,” a local expression meaning “delicious,” while also suggesting the image of dancing with delight after enjoying the soba.
Experience Making Izumo Soba
In the Izumo region, visitors can do more than simply eat soba. Several facilities offer soba-making experiences where participants can learn how to knead, roll, and cut the dough.
Making soba by hand provides a better understanding of the skill and care behind the finished dish. The experience is suitable for beginners, with instructors guiding participants through each stage. Eating the noodles you have made yourself also makes for a memorable part of a trip to Izumo.
A Food Culture Connected with Japanese Mythology
Izumo is widely known as the “home of Japanese mythology.” The region is closely associated with Izumo Taisha and numerous other ancient shrines and legends.
According to Japanese tradition, the gods from across the country gather in Izumo during the tenth month of the traditional lunar calendar. This period is known locally as “Kamiarizuki,” or the Month When the Gods Are Present, rather than the more common term “Kannazuki,” meaning the Month Without Gods.
Soba has traditionally been served during festivals and gatherings associated with this religious culture. For this reason, Izumo soba is more than simply a regional noodle dish. It is part of a food tradition connected with the beliefs, festivals, and everyday life of the Izumo region.
Enjoying Izumo Soba as Part of Your Journey
Izumo is home to many soba restaurants, ranging from long-established shops serving traditional recipes to restaurants offering creative modern interpretations. Trying different styles during a visit can be an enjoyable way to discover the subtle differences between restaurants and regions.
Izumo soba also makes an excellent meal during sightseeing at places such as Izumo Taisha and Matsue Castle. In autumn, freshly harvested new-season soba becomes available, offering an especially fragrant and flavorful experience.
Enjoying a bowl of dark, aromatic Izumo soba while reflecting on the history, landscape, and mythology of the region is much more than simply having a meal. It is an opportunity to experience the culture of Izumo through its food.
Discover the Flavor of Izumo
Izumo soba is a culinary tradition shaped by the region’s natural environment, history, religious traditions, agriculture, and everyday life. Its dark color, distinctive aroma, firm texture, and unique serving styles make it unlike many other types of Japanese soba.
When traveling through Shimane, be sure to try both warigo soba and kamaage soba. Each offers a different way to appreciate the character of buckwheat while providing a delicious connection to the history and culture of the Izumo region.