A Unique Townscape Where Port and Shrine Cultures Meet
Miho Seki has long been associated with both fishing and maritime transportation. During the Edo period, the town flourished as an important port of call for Kitamaebune trading ships, which traveled along the Sea of Japan between western Japan and Hokkaido.
These large merchant vessels carried a wide variety of goods, including iron, sake, ceramics, and seafood. Miho Seki served as an important harbor where ships could wait for favorable winds, and local tradition tells of as many as 1,000 vessels entering and leaving the port in a single day during its prosperous period.
The prosperity of the port brought shipping agents, inns, sailors’ lodges, and other businesses to the waterfront. A lively entertainment district also developed. Some traditional buildings retain architectural features designed to accommodate sailors and travelers, including structures with verandas and tatami rooms above the covered lower sections of the buildings.
The consistent height of the buildings and alignment of their eaves give the streetscape a remarkably harmonious appearance. Walking through the district offers a sense of stepping back into the atmosphere of historic Japan.
Miho Shrine: Head Shrine of Ebisu Worship
At the heart of Miho Seki stands Miho Shrine, one of the town’s most important landmarks. It is regarded as the head shrine of approximately 3,400 Ebisu shrines throughout Japan and has long attracted worshippers praying for safe voyages, prosperous business, and abundant catches of fish.
The exact date of the shrine’s foundation is unknown, but its name appears in the Izumo no Kuni Fudoki, an ancient record compiled in the early eighth century. The shrine therefore has a history extending back more than 1,200 years.
The principal deities are Kotoshironushi-no-Kami, widely worshipped as Ebisu, and Mihotsuhime-no-Mikoto, regarded as his mother. The shrine is associated with blessings related to maritime safety, fishing, commerce, abundant harvests, and good relationships.
The Distinctive Miho-zukuri Architectural Style
One of Miho Shrine’s most remarkable features is its unusual main sanctuary, known as Miho-zukuri or Hiyoku Taisha-zukuri. Two main sanctuaries stand side by side, with Kotoshironushi-no-Kami enshrined on the left and Mihotsuhime-no-Mikoto on the right.
The present main sanctuary was built in 1813. Constructed using locally sourced pine and covered with thick cedar-board roofing, it is an impressive example of traditional shrine architecture and has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
The chigi, forked finials extending above the roofs, are also distinctive. The chigi of the sanctuary dedicated to the male deity are cut vertically, while those of the sanctuary dedicated to the female deity are cut horizontally. These details reflect traditional Japanese architectural conventions associated with the gender of the enshrined deities.
Miho Seki in Japanese Mythology
Miho Seki is also an important setting in the Japanese creation myths, particularly the story known as the Transfer of the Land, or Kuni-yuzuri.
According to the myth, Ōkuninushi-no-Kami, who ruled the land of Izumo, was asked by the deities of Takamagahara, the heavenly realm, to transfer his realm to them. He sought the advice of his son, Kotoshironushi-no-Kami.
Kotoshironushi chose to avoid conflict and agreed to the peaceful transfer of the land. He is said to have then disappeared into the sea after making a distinctive clap known as ama-no-sakate. The story remains deeply connected with the religious traditions of Miho Seki and continues to be commemorated through traditional ceremonies.
Aoshibagaki Shinji
Held every year on April 7, the Aoshibagaki Shinji is a traditional ceremony based on the legend that Kotoshironushi-no-Kami concealed himself in the sea behind a barrier of green branches.
Boats decorated with fresh green branches are placed on the water, while participants wearing traditional ceremonial clothing perform rituals that evoke the world of ancient mythology.
The ceremony is associated with the arrival of spring and the renewal of life, creating a solemn and mysterious atmosphere that attracts worshippers and visitors.
Moro-debune Shinji
The Moro-debune Shinji, held on December 3, recreates another scene from the Kuni-yuzuri mythology. Parishioners board two boats and race across the harbor while vigorously splashing seawater between the vessels.
After the dramatic boat race, the participants perform the distinctive ama-no-sakate clapping ritual. This traditional form of clapping is sometimes described as a possible origin of the celebratory clapping customs known today as ippon-jime and sanbon-jime.
Aoishi-datami Street: A Stone-Paved Road from the Edo Period
One of the highlights of exploring Miho Seki is Aoishi-datami Street, a stone-paved route extending for approximately 250 meters from Miho Shrine toward Bukkokuji Temple. The street was developed during the late Edo period and preserves the atmosphere of the historic port town.
The pavement incorporates tuff stone and other stones quarried from the local coastline, as well as Shakudani stone from Fukui Prefecture. The stones take on a beautiful bluish tone when wet, giving the street its name, which means “Blue Stone-Paved Street.”
The route once served as one of the main streets of Miho Seki. It was improved to make it easier to transport cargo unloaded from Kitamaebune ships using large handcarts. Inns, sailors’ lodges, and shops once lined the street.
Traditional townhouses and long-established inns still remain today. A leisurely walk through the quiet lanes offers glimpses of the prosperity and everyday life of the historic port.
A Town Loved by Writers and Artists
The atmospheric streets of Miho Seki have attracted numerous writers and artists over the years. Lafcadio Hearn, also known as Koizumi Yakumo, described the town’s atmospheric nighttime scenery in his writings.
Other literary figures who visited Miho Seki include Yosano Tekkan and Akiko Yosano, Takahama Kyoshi, and Saijō Yaso. The town’s distinctive scenery, maritime atmosphere, and cultural traditions have long provided inspiration for visitors.
Miho-kan and the Miho Seki Museum
Along Aoishi-datami Street stands Miho-kan, a historic inn that represents the traditional architecture of Miho Seki. The present building was constructed in 1908 and features an elegant layout of banquet rooms arranged around an inner garden.
The building is designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan and preserves the character of an upscale traditional inn from the Meiji and Taisho periods.
The Miho Seki Museum introduces the history of Kitamaebune trade, festivals and rituals associated with Miho Shrine, and everyday life in the historic town. The museum building itself is also noteworthy, as it was adapted from a former sailors’ lodge.
Miho Seki Lighthouse and Spectacular Sea Views
At Jizōzaki on the eastern edge of Miho Seki stands Miho Seki Lighthouse. First illuminated in 1898, it is regarded as the oldest stone lighthouse in the San’in region and has been selected as one of the 100 Historic Lighthouses in the World.
The white lighthouse stands in striking contrast to the blue waters of the Sea of Japan. On clear days, visitors can enjoy views extending toward Mount Daisen and the Oki Islands.
A building that once served as accommodation for the lighthouse keeper has been converted into a restaurant, where visitors can enjoy a meal while looking out over the Sea of Japan.
A Town Living in Harmony with Nature
Miho Seki is blessed with a rich natural environment as well as a remarkable cultural heritage. The area’s rugged coastline, shaped by the complex terrain characteristic of a ria coast, creates dramatic scenery along the Sea of Japan.
The area is also known as a stopover point for migratory birds. In spring, birds such as blue-and-white flycatchers and narcissus flycatchers can be observed, while a variety of other species visit the area in autumn.
Near Miho Shrine, a relatively undisturbed evergreen broad-leaved forest remains and is protected as the Evergreen Broad-Leaved Forest of Miho Shrine. The preservation of this natural environment allows visitors to experience a landscape that has remained closely connected with local religious traditions for centuries.
Where Gods, the Sea, and People Meet
Miho Seki is more than a historic tourist destination. Mythology, religious faith, maritime trade, fishing, and everyday life have developed together here, creating a cultural landscape that remains part of the living community.
As you walk along the stone-paved streets, it is easy to imagine the footsteps of sailors who once arrived at the bustling port. The sea breeze carries a sense of the prayers and traditions that have continued here since ancient times.
With its traditional townscape, beautiful stone streets, ancient mythology, historic shrine, and sweeping views of the Sea of Japan, the Matsue City Miho Seki Traditional Buildings Preservation District offers an opportunity to experience a distinctive side of Japan’s history and culture.
For travelers seeking more than famous landmarks, Miho Seki provides a chance to slow down, explore on foot, and discover the enduring connection between the sea, the gods, and the people who have lived beside it for generations.